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ABOUT RED/BLACK TEA AND GONGFU HONG CHA

Black tea originated mainly in southeastern provinces like Fujian and Yunnan during the 17th century, in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. These regions offer ideal climates and soil conditions that favor tea cultivation and processing. Historically, Chinese tea culture centered on green and lightly fermented teas. Black tea appeared later, as tea makers experimented with new processing methods and met changing market demands. The complete enzymatic oxidation of the tea leaf’s polyphenols, mainly catechins, sets black tea apart. This oxidation transforms the leaf’s chemistry, darkening the leaves and creating the signature red-brown color of the brewed tea. This process also changes the flavor profile: oxidation reduces grassy, astringent notes in green tea and brings out sweeter, fruity, floral, and malty flavors, enriching aroma complexity. Black tea’s enhanced shelf life made it suitable for long-distance trade, which helped its rise in global markets in the 17th century. The Maritime Silk Road and later British colonial trade played crucial roles in popularizing black tea worldwide. Early famous black teas like Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong (Lapsang Souchong) and Gongfu-style blacks come from these origins, known for smoky and fruity nuances. Yunnan’s indigenous Camellia sinensis var. assamica contributed malty, robust black teas such as Dian Hong, adding to black tea’s diversity. Beyond China, regions like Assam and Darjeeling began producing black teas in the 19th century under British influence, becoming essential players in the global black tea market. Today, black tea remains one of the most consumed beverages worldwide, a product of centuries of cultural evolution, scientific understanding, and trade.

Gongfu Hong Cha, often translated as Gongfu Red Tea, represents the pinnacle of Chinese red tea production. Crafted with precision, patience, and profound knowledge, this tea embodies the philosophy of harmony, balance, and mastery deeply rooted in Chinese tea culture. While Western audiences often call it "black tea," in China, it is categorized as Hong Cha — Red Tea, referring to the reddish infusion and leaf color. Gongfu Hong Cha is distinguished by its refined processing, rich aroma, complex flavor, and health benefits beyond ordinary tea. The term Gongfu refers to the meticulous craftsmanship involved in processing the tea. Every stage, from leaf plucking to oxidation and drying, requires skill, attention, and deep understanding of the leaf's nature. Gongfu Hong Cha is a category that includes many famous regional variations, each shaped by its terroir, cultivar, and artisanal tradition. The "Gongfu" approach requires years of training. The tea master adjusts withering, rolling, oxidation, and drying according to leaf quality, weather, and desired profile. Each region offers unique soil, altitude, climate, and cultivars, contributing to diverse flavors. Unlike many Western black teas, Gongfu Hong Cha is often naturally sweet, with honey, caramel, floral, fruity, and chocolate notes, rarely harsh or bitter. Brewing Gongfu style reveals the tea's evolving layers with each infusion, a meditative and conscious drinking experience.

WUYISHAN BLACK TEA
One famous example is Jin Jun Mei, a red tea that started in the Wuyishan mountains in China around 2005. This tea is special because it uses only the youngest, most tender tea buds picked in spring. The processing method was carefully changed using scientific knowledge to make the tea’s taste sweeter, its color golden, and its aroma floral and fruity. This careful technique helped create a whole new category of high-quality red tea. The success of Jin Jun Mei didn’t just lead others to copy it. Instead, tea experts took the technology and adapted it to other regions, like Qimen, famous for its classic red/black teas. In Qimen, they worked carefully to use the best local tea buds and modified the processing steps to fit the unique qualities of the tea grown there. This resulted in a new type of red tea sometimes called "Qimei," combining the sweet golden color of Jin Jun Mei with the pungent aroma typical of Qimen teas. This process shows that red tea production is not just about tradition but also about innovation. By blending scientific understanding with local knowledge and high-quality raw materials, tea producers can create new teas that keep traditional flavors alive while adding fresh, exciting qualities. Overall, red tea is a product of carefully selecting tea leaves and precise processing methods. It requires skill and attention to detail at every stage, from picking the buds to drying the leaves, to achieve the rich flavors and aromas that tea lovers enjoy. The modern advances in tea making have helped raise the quality and reputation of red tea, supporting local farmers and expanding the market for premium teas.

In addition to the Wuyishan black teas, three other black tea varieties are produced in northern Fujian, collectively known as Minhongs. This name honors the Ming Dynasty, which existed in the mountainous regions of present-day Fujian after the fall of the Tang Empire in the 10th century. Each Minhong is named after a locality associated with it for various reasons. While they are generally similar, differences in botany and local production characteristics influence each variety's subtle nuances and distinct personalities: Tanyang Gongfu Hong Cha, Bailin Gongfu Hong Cha, Zhenghe Gongfu Hong Cha.

PROCESSING METHOD

Withering — Rolling — Fermentation — Drying

Withering
The first stage in black tea production is withering. The specifics of withering for Gongfu Hong teas depend on the intended goals, processing methods, and quality standards of the particular tea being produced. Withering allows the tea leaves to lose part of their moisture, making them softer and more pliable, preparing them for the rolling stage. During this stage, enzymatic activity increases, triggering certain chemical transformations within the leaf, which create the optimal chemical environment for subsequent fermentation.

Rolling
Rolling is the second stage in the primary processing of red/black tea. This is a crucial step in shaping the appearance and structure of Gongfu Hong. The Purpose of rolling involves the mechanical deformation of withered tea leaves. During this process, the cell walls of the leaves are ruptured, allowing the cell sap to flow out. The released polyphenols then react with oxygen under the influence of enzymes, initiating oxidation. This chemical transformation sets the stage for the upcoming fermentation phase. As the leaves are rolled, tea sap adheres to the surface of the leaves. Later, during infusion, this surface-bound sap dissolves into the liquor, contributing to the final brew's strength, body, and richness.

Fermentation
Fermentation represents the third stage of primary processing for black tea. Building on proper withering and rolling, this phase is critical in developing the final tea’s color, flavor, and aroma profile. The primary goal of fermentation is to intensify enzymatic activity, promote the oxidation of polyphenols, and develop the distinctive color and flavor profile characteristic of black tea. Properly executed fermentation under controlled conditions significantly reduces the grassy, unripe aromas of the fresh leaf and simultaneously cultivates a rich, complex aroma.

Drying
Drying is the final stage in primary black tea processing. Various drying equipment, including automatic, manual, and traditional bamboo dryers, may be used. Typically, drying occurs in two stages: Initial Drying (a high-temperature “rough fire” phase quickly reduces moisture) and final drying (after spreading and cooling the leaves, a second drying phase called “complete fire” ensures thorough drying and aroma development).

Drying with High Heat uses high temperature and proceeds rapidly. Its primary purpose is to halt enzymatic activity and reduce moisture content in the leaves. This stage is critical to stop further oxidation and prepare the leaves for the final drying. Between the two drying phases, the leaves are cooled. This cooling allows moisture to redistribute evenly inside the leaf, preventing excessive dryness or damage. However, it is essential to avoid piling leaves too thickly or overcooling, which can negatively affect drying uniformity. The second drying stage occurs at lower temperatures and proceeds slowly. This phase promotes intermittent evaporation of remaining moisture and helps develop and open up the tea’s aroma.


The difference in red tea production technology is that it lacks the “red kettle” operation, a short but intense heating after fermentation that stops enzyme activity. Therefore, "Xiao Zhong" teas stop oxidizing at this point, while Gongfu Hong teas continue oxidizing even during drying. Because of this, Gongfu Hong teas require higher skill; it is necessary to precisely time all the steps and determine exactly when fermentation ends to avoid spoiling the tea. Also, the final shape is formed early during the rolling, which is done only once. After completing all the steps, Gongfu Hong teas must rest as they mature. Additionally, Gongfu Hong teas are often made from buds, and fermenting buds properly is much more difficult than doing so with leaves; the processes proceed at different speeds. In summary, it’s worth emphasizing that the development of red tea technology from Xiao Zhongs to Gongfu Hongs allowed for using a wider variety of raw materials. The technology was streamlined with fewer steps, but became more demanding and delicate. Currently, Xiao Zhong is a geographical and botanical concept; it exists only in Fujian and refers to a group of bushes collectively called “Xiao Zhong.” In contrast, Gongfu Hong refers specifically to the technology.

HEALTH BENEFITS

Tea has been consumed for centuries not only for its taste and cultural significance but also for its many health benefits. Among all tea categories, red tea (Hong Cha) from China and black tea from Western traditions stand out for their rich composition of bioactive compounds. Although they differ in processing and taste, both share many health-promoting properties backed by scientific research.

Both Chinese Hong Cha and Western black tea are made from the leaves of Camellia sinensis. The difference lies mainly in their processing techniques, but chemically, they contain similar groups of beneficial compounds: polyphenols (Theaflavins, Thearubigins, Catechins), Amino acids (L-theanine), Alkaloids (Caffeine, Theobromine), Minerals (Potassium, Magnesium, Fluoride), Vitamins (B group, C, K), and Volatile organic compounds (aromas and essential oils). During oxidation, many catechins (present in green tea) transform into theaflavins and thearubigins, responsible for the darker color and rich flavor of red/black teas — but also for many health effects.

Theaflavins and thearubigins may help reduce LDL cholesterol levels ("bad cholesterol") while supporting HDL cholesterol. Antioxidant activity protects blood vessels from oxidative damage, reducing the risk of atherosclerosis and heart disease. Studies suggest moderate black tea consumption may help lower blood pressure and improve vascular function (flow-mediated dilation).

Theaflavins neutralize free radicals, reducing oxidative stress linked to aging, inflammation, and chronic diseases. Compared to green tea, red/black teas offer a different antioxidant profile but still significant protection against cellular damage. Caffeine and L-theanine work together to improve alertness, focus, and cognitive performance without overstimulation. Studies suggest regular consumption may lower the risk of neurodegenerative diseases such as Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s. Thearubigins and polyphenols have mild antimicrobial effects that may balance gut flora. May support better digestion and help reduce inflammation in the digestive tract. Theaflavins may increase fat oxidation and improve metabolic rate. Some studies show potential in supporting weight control combined with healthy lifestyle habits. Polyphenols show antiviral and antibacterial properties. It may help strengthen immune defenses and reduce susceptibility to infections.

  • Sources: Rasheed et al., 2021, Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry; Gardner et al., 2007, American Journal of Clinical Nutrition; Cabrera et al., 2006, Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry; Einöther et al., 2013, Nutritional Neuroscience; Pan et al., 2019, Journal of Alzheimer's Disease; Zhong et al., 2020, Frontiers in Microbiology; Hursel et al., 2011, Obesity Reviews; Song et al., 2005, Journal of Nutrition Biochemistry.

YUNNAN RED TEA

Yunnan Black Tea, known as Dian Hong, is one of China’s most famous and sought-after black teas, prized for its rich flavor, high-quality leaves, and deep cultural heritage. Grown primarily in Fengqing County of Yunnan Province, this tea combines centuries-old traditions and modern craftsmanship.

The production of black tea in Yunnan began in the 1930s when officials encouraged farmers to plant tea on the fertile mountain slopes of Fengqing. By 1939, the first batch of Dian Hong — approximately 25 tons — was exported to Hong Kong and England. Its rich aroma and smooth taste quickly gained international recognition. Yunnan’s unique tea varieties, particularly Camellia sinensis var. assamica, thrive in the region's high altitudes (1000–2000 meters), mild climate, and mineral-rich soils. These conditions contribute to the tea's high content of polyphenols and alkaloids, giving Dian Hong its characteristic strength, complexity, and aging potential.

The processing of Dian Hong involves Plucking (Tender buds and leaves, primarily harvested in spring), Withering (Controlled moisture reduction), Rolling (to release enzymes and initiate oxidation), Oxidation (Fermentation) (Developing the tea’s flavor profile), and Drying (Stabilizing the tea for storage). While much of the process is mechanized today, premium Dian Hong still involves meticulous handwork, especially for shaping and sorting.

Check out our DIAN HONG Collection to explore the variety of Yunnan Red Tea:
ZAO CHUN LAO SHU TOU CAI DIAN HONG - EARLY SPRING HARVEST
DIAN HONG JIN YA - GOLDEN BUDS
DIAN HONG JIN HAO - GOLDEN TIPS
DIAN HONG JN ZHEN - GOLDEN NEEDLE
MATAI GU SHU DIAN HONG - MATAI ANCIENT TREE

SHAI HONG CHA

In 19th-century China, sun-drying was the traditional method for processing black tea, especially in provinces like Fujian, Jiangxi, and Anhui. Leaves were withered under the sun, gently rolled, oxidized, and dried naturally. This method required no fuel or machinery, but its reliance on weather made consistency difficult. Sun-dried black teas developed a softer, sweeter taste with subtle aromas and excellent aging potential, while heat-dried teas had brighter, more intense aromas but shorter shelf life.

While most regions eventually adopted modern heat-drying, Yunnan followed a different course. Before the creation of Dian Hong in 1939, Yunnan already produced unique, partly oxidized sun-dried teas. Technically, this type of tea sits between white and black categories, though modern markets classify it as black. During wartime and the early years of Dian Hong production, sun-drying remained common due to limited equipment. By the late 20th century, industrial heat-drying became dominant, and sun-drying was limited to small-scale or household production.

After market liberalization in 1984, private producers began reintroducing sun-drying for its lower cost and unique flavor profile. The rise of Pu-erh tea also helped Shaihong gain attention, as both share similarities: gentle drying preserves enzyme activity, allowing these teas to age and transform over time, which are highly valued traits for collectors and connoisseurs. From the late 2000s, Yunnan sun-dried black teas entered the market as Shaihong Cha (晒红茶), which is now widely accepted.

Modern Shaihong combines centuries-old sun-drying tradition with contemporary craftsmanship. It represents a revival of Qing dynasty technique, a bridge between white and black tea processing, and a modern premium tea appreciated for its complexity and aging potential., Shaihong's success may even inspire a broader return to sun-drying in other regions, reconnecting tea production with its natural roots.

Check out our DIAN HONG Collection to explore the variety of Yunnan Red Tea:
2024 DA XUE SHAN GU SHU SHAI HONG
2023 MATAI GU SHU DIAN HONG
2024 "120/80" by AN SHIM TEA
2020 MAN SAO ZI RAN SHENG SHAI DE GAO HONG CHA
2023 BẠCH HỒNG SHAN
2024 HÀ GIANG HỒNG TRÀ

Andrei Ivanov

Founder of AN SHIM TEA
AN SHIM TEA - WILD TEA
Enjoy our Wild Tea Collection, gathered from ancient trees growing freely in the high mountains of Yunnan, Vietnam, Thailand, and Laos. Untouched by chemicals, rich in energy, and shaped by nature alone.

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