Our Japanese tea journey continued on the island of Shikoku, where our goal was to find producers of Goishicha, a traditional Japanese fermented tea that we’ve come to appreciate in recent years. As we changed locations, the climate and weather shifted too, welcoming us with refreshing air, gentle warm rains, and mists that covered the mountains.

Thanks to our colleagues, we had rough geographical guidelines on where to go and what to look for. This added a certain pressure, along with excitement, as we faced the unknown with anticipation of discoveries. We were fortunate: we found a tea producer who was making Goishicha that day, spoke with them, learned many new facts, and captured the process of making this rare tea. In such moments, I always feel grateful to fate for these beautiful experiences and the people I meet.

Shikoku is the smallest of Japan’s four main islands, covering an area of approximately 18,800 km². The island is historically divided into four provinces — Awa, Tosa, Sanuki, and Iyo — which correspond to the present-day prefectures of Tokushima, Kōchi, Kagawa, and Ehime. The geography of Shikoku is dominated by the Shikoku Mountains, with Mount Ishizuchi (1,982 m) being the highest peak and one of the most important mountains in Japan’s religious tradition. The island’s river systems, including the Yoshino River and Shimanto River, are crucial for agriculture, transportation, and ecosystems. Climatically, Shikoku shows strong contrasts. The Pacific Ocean side is characterized by high precipitation and frequent typhoons, while the Seto Inland Sea side has a more temperate, drier climate. The combination of mountainous terrain, varied soils, and abundant water makes Shikoku suitable for rice, citrus, and tea cultivation. The island is also well-known for the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage, an important Buddhist route linked to Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi).

Kōchi Prefecture occupies the entire southern portion of Shikoku and has a land area of about 7,100 km². It is one of the least densely populated prefectures in Japan. Facing the Pacific Ocean, Kōchi records some of the highest annual rainfall levels in the country, exceeding 2,500 mm in certain areas. The prefecture is highly mountainous, with around 84% of its territory covered by forest. The Shimanto River, often referred to as Japan’s last undammed major river, flows through Kōchi for 196 km, supporting a diverse ecosystem. Other rivers, such as the Niyodo and Monobe, are known for their clarity and play an essential role in local agriculture. Agriculture in Kōchi benefits from fertile alluvial plains and subtropical climatic conditions influenced by the Kuroshio Current. The region is especially noted for yuzu citrus cultivation, greenhouse horticulture, and rice production. From a cultural perspective, Kōchi is recognized as the birthplace of Sakamoto Ryōma, a key figure of the Meiji Restoration, and for the annual Yosakoi Dance Festival, which attracts participants from across Japan.

Ōtoyo is a rural town located in the northern part of Kōchi Prefecture, within the upper reaches of the Yoshino River basin. The town covers an area of about 315 km², with elevations ranging from valley bottoms to over 1,500 meters in the surrounding mountains.The climate of Ōtoyo is influenced by its altitude. It experiences relatively cool summers, cold winters, and significant rainfall due to orographic effects. Annual precipitation supports dense forests of cedar and cypress, as well as smaller-scale agricultural production. Snowfall occurs in higher areas, distinguishing it from the milder coastal zones of Kōchi. The soils are primarily derived from granite and sedimentary rock, creating conditions suitable for mountain agriculture, including tea cultivation. The rural economy is based on forestry, small-scale farming, and eco-tourism. With its dispersed villages and aging population, Ōtoyo represents the demographic and economic challenges of Japan’s mountain regions while also preserving a traditional way of life that reflects the historical character of rural Shikoku.

Goishicha is nearly exclusively produced in the Kōchi Prefecture. It is lauded for its health benefits, particularly for the digestive system, which has sparked renewed interest in its production, saving it from extinction. The raw tea leaves are sourced from the preserved environment of the Shikoku mountains. Historically, the Zairai (native) variety was commonly used, but today, the more widely adopted cultivar is Yabukita. The manufacturing process utilizes a unique mixed fermentation method known as "two-step fermentation." This technique requires significant skill and expertise in monitoring temperature and humidity, as various environmental factors can influence the fermentation outcomes and the final quality of the tea. The first, "aerobic fermentation," involves using aerobic molds that need oxygen to thrive. The second stage, "lactic acid fermentation," promotes the growth of anaerobic bacteria.

Before fermentation, the freshly harvested leaves, twigs, and branches are steamed for 2-3 hours to ensure uniform cooking. After steaming, the leaves are spread out on straw mats, and larger twigs are removed by hand. The prepared leaves are piled onto straw mats, forming a heap approximately 50-70 cm high, then covered with additional straw mats. This mixture undergoes aerobic fermentation for about 7-10 days. In the second fermentation stage, the leaves are transferred to large wooden barrels, which are pressed together and compacted under heavy stones to eliminate air. The barrels are hermetically sealed, allowing the leaves to ferment in an oxygen-free environment for 14-20 days. After fermentation, the compacted layers of tea leaves are removed from the barrels and cut into squares approximately 3-4 cm in size. These square-shaped leaves are neatly arranged on straw mats to dry in the sun, completing the production process. Goishicha is a tea with a rich heritage, and thanks to the passion and work of generations of producers, it is a privilege to still be able to taste it today.

ORGANOLEPTICS
The goishicha presents a sweet and mellow profile, devoid of astringency yet featuring a pleasant and balanced acidity. The large, dry tea leaves are densely layered and exhibit a deep, dark, reddish-brown hue. Their aroma is strikingly spicy, with notes reminiscent of brine, prunes, licorice, and Hijiki seaweed.

Upon brewing, the tea produces a bright yellow-orange, clean, and clear liquor. The fragrance offers aromatic hints of citrus peel, ume (Japanese plum), and raisins, intertwined with subtle undertones of kombu seaweed, adding depth to the bouquet.

Tasting this goishicha reveals a delightful balance of sour and sweet flavors, with a gentle minerality that leaves a refreshing sensation in the mouth. The palate experiences a vibrant interplay of citrusy and spicy notes. These are complemented by balsamic nuances of earthy roots and aniseed, creating a rich and intricate tasting experience that highlights the unique qualities of this fermented tea.

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