Our Japanese tea journey continued on the island of Shikoku, where our goal was to find producers of Goishicha, a traditional Japanese fermented tea that we’ve come to appreciate in recent years. As we changed locations, the climate and weather shifted too, welcoming us with refreshing air, gentle warm rains, and mists that covered the mountains.

Thanks to our colleagues, we had rough geographical guidelines on where to go and what to look for. This added a certain pressure, along with excitement, as we faced the unknown with anticipation of discoveries. We were fortunate: we found a tea producer who was making Goishicha that day, spoke with them, learned many new facts, and captured the process of making this rare tea. In such moments, I always feel grateful to fate for these beautiful experiences and the people I meet.

Goishicha is nearly exclusively produced in the Kōchi Prefecture. It is lauded for its health benefits, particularly for the digestive system, which has sparked renewed interest in its production, saving it from extinction. The raw tea leaves are sourced from the preserved environment of the Shikoku mountains. Historically, the Zairai (native) variety was commonly used, but today, the more widely adopted cultivar is Yabukita. The manufacturing process utilizes a unique mixed fermentation method known as "two-step fermentation." This technique requires significant skill and expertise in monitoring temperature and humidity, as various environmental factors can influence the fermentation outcomes and the final quality of the tea. The first, "aerobic fermentation," involves using aerobic molds that need oxygen to thrive. The second stage, "lactic acid fermentation," promotes the growth of anaerobic bacteria.

Before fermentation, the freshly harvested leaves, twigs, and branches are steamed for 2-3 hours to ensure uniform cooking. After steaming, the leaves are spread out on straw mats, and larger twigs are removed by hand. The prepared leaves are piled onto straw mats, forming a heap approximately 50-70 cm high, then covered with additional straw mats. This mixture undergoes aerobic fermentation for about 7-10 days. In the second fermentation stage, the leaves are transferred to large wooden barrels, which are pressed together and compacted under heavy stones to eliminate air. The barrels are hermetically sealed, allowing the leaves to ferment in an oxygen-free environment for 14-20 days. After fermentation, the compacted layers of tea leaves are removed from the barrels and cut into squares approximately 3-4 cm in size. These square-shaped leaves are neatly arranged on straw mats to dry in the sun, completing the production process. Goishicha is a tea with a rich heritage, and thanks to the passion and work of generations of producers, it is a privilege to still be able to taste it today.

ORGANOLEPTICS
The goishicha presents a sweet and mellow profile, devoid of astringency yet featuring a pleasant and balanced acidity. The large, dry tea leaves are densely layered and exhibit a deep, dark, reddish-brown hue. Their aroma is strikingly spicy, with notes reminiscent of brine, prunes, licorice, and Hijiki seaweed.

Upon brewing, the tea produces a bright yellow-orange, clean, and clear liquor. The fragrance offers aromatic hints of citrus peel, ume (Japanese plum), and raisins, intertwined with subtle undertones of kombu seaweed, adding depth to the bouquet.

Tasting this goishicha reveals a delightful balance of sour and sweet flavors, with a gentle minerality that leaves a refreshing sensation in the mouth. The palate experiences a vibrant interplay of citrusy and spicy notes. These are complemented by balsamic nuances of earthy roots and aniseed, creating a rich and intricate tasting experience that highlights the unique qualities of this fermented tea.

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