ORIGINŌtoyo, situated in northeastern Kōchi Prefecture on Shikoku Island, boasts a varied topography with elevations ranging from 200 to 1,400 meters. This elevation diversity contributes to the area's unique climate characteristics, which fall under the humid subtropical category. Ōtoyo experiences warm summers, making it a pleasant environment during this season, while winters are typically cool, accompanied by light snowfall at higher elevations. One of the defining features of Ōtoyo's climate is its significant annual rainfall, which can reach up to 3,000 mm in certain areas, making it one of the wetter regions in Japan. The climatic conditions influence the local flora and fauna and play a crucial role in agricultural practices, particularly cultivating certain crops, including tea. The interplay of elevation and rainfall creates an environment conducive to producing high-quality tea, benefiting from the region's unique terroir.
Goishicha is nearly exclusively produced in the Kōchi Prefecture. It is lauded for its health benefits, particularly for the digestive system, which has sparked renewed interest in its production, saving it from extinction. In recent years, some farmers have sought to revive the craft by learning traditional production techniques from the Ogasawara family, and several new producers have emerged in Kōchi.
The name "goishicha" translates to "go stones tea," named for the tea's resemblance to the black stones used in the game of go. During processing, the tea leaves are pressed and cut into square shapes before being laid out on rice straws to dry in the sun. With its rounded corners, the final product visually echoes the appearance of go stones on a board, lending a unique identity to this traditional tea. The raw tea leaves are sourced from the natural, wild environments of the Shikoku mountains, where they thrive under direct sunlight. Harvesting typically occurs between mid-June and July. Historically, the Zairai variety of tea bush was commonly used, but today, the more widely adopted variety is Yabukita. The manufacturing process employs a unique mixed fermentation method called "two-step fermentation." This technique requires significant skill and expertise in monitoring temperature and humidity, as various environmental factors can influence the fermentation outcomes and the final quality of the tea. The first, "aerobic fermentation," involves using aerobic molds that need oxygen to thrive. The second stage, "lactic acid fermentation," promotes the growth of anaerobic bacteria.
Before fermentation, the freshly harvested leaves, twigs, and branches are steamed for 2-3 hours to ensure uniform cooking. After steaming, the leaves are spread out on straw mats, and larger twigs are removed. The prepared leaves are piled onto straw mats, forming a heap approximately 50-70 cm high, then covered with additional straw mats. This mixture undergoes aerobic fermentation for about 7-10 days. In the second fermentation stage, the leaves are transferred to large wooden barrels, which are pressed together and compacted under heavy stones to eliminate air. The barrels are hermetically sealed, allowing the leaves to ferment in an oxygen-free environment for 14-20 days. After the fermentation process, the compacted layers of tea leaves are removed from the barrels and cut into squares approximately 2.5-4 cm in size. These square-shaped leaves, resembling go stones, are then neatly arranged on straw mats to dry in the sun, completing the production process.
Yamacha (“mountain tea”) refers to tea plants growing in the wild or semi-wild conditions across Japan, often on mountain slopes, forest edges, or abandoned tea fields. These plants are generally seed-grown and genetically diverse, not cloned cultivars. In many cases, yamacha overlaps with the horticultural term zairai, meaning “native variety” in the sense of locally adapted, seed-propagated tea. Although tea is not native to Japan, having been introduced from China centuries ago, seed-propagated plants escaped cultivation and adapted to local environments over generations. These wild-growing stands can be centuries old, showing wide variation in leaf size, flavor, and harvest timing. Historically, yamacha played an important role in rural tea culture, especially in regions where industrial cultivation never fully replaced local, naturalized bushes. Today, it remains valued for its resilience, distinct flavors, and connection to traditional Japanese tea-making methods. Goishicha is one of those unique teas in Japan, traditionally made from yamacha leaves and branches.
Check out our big article about visiting
Goishicha production during our Japanese tea expedition 2025.
ORGANOLEPTICSThe goishicha presents a sweet and mellow profile, devoid of astringency yet featuring a pleasant and balanced acidity. The large, dry tea leaves are densely layered and exhibit a deep, dark, reddish-brown hue. Their aroma is strikingly spicy, with notes reminiscent of brine, prunes, licorice, and Hijiki seaweed.
Upon brewing, the tea produces a bright yellow-orange, clean, and clear liquor. The fragrance offers aromatic hints of citrus peel, ume (Japanese plum), and raisins, intertwined with subtle undertones of kombu seaweed, adding depth to the bouquet.
Tasting this goishicha reveals a delightful balance of sour and sweet flavors, with a gentle minerality that leaves a refreshing sensation in the mouth. The palate experiences a vibrant interplay of citrusy and spicy notes. These are complemented by balsamic nuances of earthy roots and aniseed, creating a rich and intricate tasting experience that highlights the unique qualities of this fermented tea.