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"TAKE FIVE" WUYISHAN

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Wuyishan, Fujian, China

Wuyishan, a UNESCO World Heritage site in Fujian Province, China, is renowned for its stunning landscapes, biodiversity, and rich cultural heritage. However, one of its most distinguished contributions to the world is Wuyishan Rock Tea, or "Yan Cha" tea. This unique type of wulong/oolong tea is celebrated for its distinctive flavors and health benefits and its deep-rooted historical and cultural significance.

The origins of Wuyishan Rock Tea date back to the Song Dynasty (960–1279), although the production and consumption of tea in China can be traced back to much earlier times. The Wuyi Mountains provided an ideal environment for tea cultivation, with their unique climate and rich mineral-laden soil contributing to the tea's flavor profile. During the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644), Wuyishan gained national prominence when the tea was exported to Europe and beyond, especially under the auspices of traders and merchants who recognized its superior quality.

The production of Wuyishan Rock Tea transformed from small-scale local production to a significant commercial industry, further enhanced by the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912). The prestigious tea was often associated with the elite, and its prestige was bolstered through art and literature. The ‘Wuyi Rock Tea’ was included in royal court tribute tea, showcasing its high standing among other Chinese teas.

Geographically, Wuyishan is characterized by its dramatic landscape of rugged mountains, deep gorges, and clear rivers, which create a microclimate ideal for tea cultivation. The region experiences a significant temperature gradient, with cool nights and warm days, allowing the tea plants to develop complex flavors. The mountainous terrain is home to various tea bushes, including the notable Da Hong Pao, which is known for its exceptional quality and historical value.

The terroir of Wuyishan is pivotal in determining the flavor profile of its rock teas. The region's unique geology, rich with mineral content, infuses the teas with distinctive characteristics. The local varieties adapt to the conditions, resulting in teas that often exhibit floral, fruity, and nutty notes with a lingering complexity. The term "rock tea" refers to the high-altitude cultivation near rock formations, which adds to the product's unique quality.

The cultural significance of Wuyishan Rock Tea extends far beyond its taste and health benefits. Tea-drinking culture in China is steeped in rituals and traditions emphasizing harmony and natural appreciation. The process of brewing Wuyishan Rock Tea embodies this philosophy, where careful attention is given to the water temperature, tea leaves, and brewing duration to create a sensory experience.

Wuyishan is also the backdrop for various festivals and events celebrating tea culture. The annual tea-picking festival showcases the traditional methods of harvesting and processing tea, drawing both locals and tourists to partake in the festivities. The local communities often engage in rituals to honor the tea gods, emphasizing the spiritual connection that tea holds in Chinese culture.

THE ICONIC TEAS OF WUYISHAN

DA HONG PAO, meaning "Big Red Robe," is arguably the most famous of all Wuyishan teas and perhaps one of the most revered teas in China. Its story is steeped in legend; it is said that this tea has a history dating back to the Ming Dynasty, when it was honored as a tribute tea for the emperor. Da Hong Pao is known for its deep, rich flavor profile, which includes floral notes, caramel sweetness, and a robust, yet smooth, finish. The tea leaves used for Da Hong Pao are typically harvested from ancient tea trees, some of which are hundreds of years old, found in the rocky crevices of Wuyishan.

SHUI XIAN, or "Water Fairy," is another renowned rock tea from Wuyishan, known for its smooth, fragrant character. Originating from the Wuyi Mountain area, Shui Xian is often characterized by its floral fragrance combined with a sweet, slightly fruity flavor. The tea leaves are larger and more twisted compared to other varieties, and the infusion yields a bright amber color. Shui Xian is particularly popular among tea enthusiasts for its balance and complexity, which can vary depending on the specific processing techniques.

TIE LUO HAN, or "Iron Arhat," is a rock tea that boasts a rich history and a distinctive profile. Said to be named after an arhat, a Buddhist saint, this tea is famous for its robust flavor and lingering sweetness, complemented by a hint of smokiness. The character of Tie Luo Han can be described as bold and deep, making it a favorite for tea lovers who enjoy a more intense cup. The variety stands out with its dark, twisted leaves and offers a flavor profile that balances toasted notes with floral undertones, providing a unique tasting experience with each brew.

BAI JI GUAN, meaning "White Cockscomb," is a rare and highly prized Wuyishan tea distinguished by its pale yellow-tipped leaves. This tea is particularly valued for its subtle sweetness and smooth finish. It has floral and fruity notes and offers a delicate and sophisticated tasting experience. Bai Ji Guan is often considered one of the "Four Famous Wuyishan Teas" alongside Da Hong Pao, Shui Xian, and Tie Luo Han. Its limited production and exquisite flavor make it a sought-after choice for tea collectors.

ROU GUI, meaning "Cinnamon," is another celebrated rock tea from the Wuyishan region. This tea is known for its unique flavor profile that often includes hints of cinnamon and other spicy notes, which give it a warmth and sweetness that are quite distinctive. The infusion of Rou Gui typically presents a rich amber color, accompanied by a full-bodied taste. The aroma is complex, with warm notes that evoke a sense of comforting spices. Many tea drinkers appreciate Rou Gui for its smoothness and lingering sweetness, often compared to the richness of caramel.

BA XIAN translates to "Eight Immortals," a name that references a group of legendary figures in Chinese folklore, symbolizing good fortune and prosperity. This tea is less commonly known but treasured for its unique qualities. Ba Xian is characterized by its smooth and fragrant notes, combining a hint of floral sweetness with subtle earthy undertones. It features a pleasing complexity, making it enjoyable for a range of palates. The aftertaste is often sweet and restorative, leaving a delightful impression on the tongue.

SHUI JIN GUI, translating to "Water Golden Turtle," is a lesser-known but highly regarded rock tea from Wuyishan. Known for its unique flavor and smooth texture, Shui Jin Gui combines the characteristics of both oolong and black teas. Shui Jin Gui often presents a sweet, mellow taste with a subtle floral aroma interlaced with fruit and honey notes. The infusion yields a bright golden color and a characteristic richness that enthusiasts often find comforting. The tea is well-balanced, making it suitable for novice and experienced tea drinkers.

QILAN, or "Rare Orchid," is a distinctive Wuyishan oolong tea known for its fragrant and versatile flavor profile. This tea embodies the essence of the mountainous environment where it grows. Qilan is appreciated for its aromatic bouquet, often reminiscent of fresh orchids and fruits. The tea infuses a bright yellow-green and has a sweet, lingering aftertaste. Flavor notes can vary from floral to fruity, providing a delightful exploration with each sip.

JIN JUN MEI, translating to "Golden Eyebrow," is a celebrated black tea that originated in the Tongmu region of Wuyishan. It has gained international acclaim for its exquisite taste and aroma. Known for its bright golden tips and robust flavor, Jin Jun Mei offers a rich and malty profile, often accompanied by sweet notes reminiscent of honey, caramel, and even light chocolate. It has a smooth finish, leaving a delightful aftertaste.

ZHENG SHAN XIO XHONG is often called the original Lapsang Souchong, a famous black tea known for its unique smoky flavor. It is crafted from the leaves grown in the Tongmu village of Wuyishan. This tea is distinctive for its smoky aroma, which arises from the traditional drying process over pinewood fires. It possesses a dark, rich flavor profile that includes notes of cedar, malt, and a natural sweetness that balances the smokiness.

TONGMU HONG CHA, or "Tongmu Black Tea," is another remarkable black tea from the Wuyishan region, known for its high-quality leaves and rich flavor. Tongmu Hong Cha typically features a smooth and mellow character, marked by subtle sweetness and fruity undertones. It can have hints of caramel and a slightly floral aroma, creating a harmonious taste experience.

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The Wuyishan tea culture emphasizes the Gongfu tea ceremony, a meticulous method of preparing and serving tea that showcases skill and attention to detail. This ceremony involves multiple infusions, where the focus is on appreciating the changing flavors and aromas of the tea over time. Wuyishan teas are often admired for their complexity, with drinkers encouraged to engage their senses fully when tasting. The appreciation of aroma and flavor is central to the experience, reflecting a deep respect for the tea-making craft.

Tea culture in Wuyishan is deeply intertwined with philosophy, particularly Zen Buddhism. The mindful practice of brewing and sipping tea is seen as a meditative act that fosters tranquility and contemplation.

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